|
||||
|
|
Solex 28PICT-1, -2, 30PICT -1 |
This one was fitted to a VW bug. 1961-67 type I , 1961-67 type II. A simple little carb that is very easy to rekit clean and adjust. |
Float setting: Proper needle & seat gasket must be used for specific carburettor. Use the following data to determine the gasket required. 28PICT -1 -2 1.0mm 30PICT-1 1.0mm I find this data is a generality. I double check the actual float position after installing the recommended washer just to be sure the float level is correct. Using a vernier caliper measure to the tip of the needle with the gasket in place. Now using this measurement invert the carby body with float installed with the retainer in place #21. Hold the float in position & place vernier exacting where the needle will touch the float & see where the float will sit. I like to set it parallel with the top surface. Use the washers supplied or other washers to obtain the correct level. Adjustment: Turn mixture screw #14 in slowly until it stops, then turn out 2.5 to 3 turns. Start engine & warm up. Set the idle speed using the idling control screw. Set mixture screw for best idle. Reset to correct idle speed and readjust the mixture screw for best idle. Repeat these steps until no further adjustments are required. Ensure the timing is correct for your model engine before final carburettor settings. Choke Setting: When the engine starts the choke pull off diaphram #27 will pull the choke off slightly to avoid over-choking. Ensure it does just that. If not then you will need to re-check that it is fitted correctly. You can test how far it will pull the choke off when you fit the diaphram in place before the choke housing goes on. This is simply done by pushing the diaphram shaft into it housing as far as it will travel & check to see that it opens the choke butterfly from the closed position. If it does then the choke housing can be fitted and adjusted. Loosen the screws #1 on the choke housing bracket. Rotate the housing #3 counter-clockwise until the hook on the coil spring contacts the lever on the choke shaft. From here it should only take about an 1/8 of a turn to line up the index marks on the cover. However due to the age this may not be in the correct position anymore. Best way to do it is to bring the hook into contact with the link on the shaft and continue to rotate in a counter clockwise direction untill the butterfly valve just closes again the airhorn. This should be done in the morning because the temperature changes through-out the day, so if you set it in the middle of the day the choke will be to tight in the morning when the temperature is colder. Although this will not over choke the carby, it will take longer to come off. If you move to a different climate area, you will need to reset the choke again to keep it in optimal adjustment. If all else has been adjusted correctly the vehicle should start & run at fast idle when cold and slowly release back to normal idle when the choke releases. The throttle will need to be depressed for the fast idle cam to fall and allow the lever arm to return to its normal closed position otherwise the engine will still rev high even though the choke may be off. Final tips: Linkages can be prone to wear, usually the accelerator pump linkages #20 back to the throttle shaft. Too much movement and you will probably get a hesitation when you hit the accelerator pedal. Float level setting is critical. Spend the time to get it right. Test the idle fuel shut off solenoid is working correctly. Applying power on & off the solenoid should create a clicking noise inside the solenoid. This is the needle opening & closing in the housing. If the solenoid fails the engine will not idle and no amount of adjustment will get you a satisfactory idle. |